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Day 5 – Seyðisfjörður

I was really looking forward to Seyðisfjörður (“say-this-fyor-thur”), a town in eastern Iceland, sitting at the innermost point of the fjord of the same name. We had turned to streaming services during COVID and discovered Ófærð (Trapped), an Icelandic crime series which was filmed in Siglufjörður in the north and Seyðisfjörður in the east (even though the two towns are four and a half hours apart on the Ring Road and that’s when the weather is good.) The ship passed Siglufjörður during the night on our way to Akureyri, so this would be my only chance to see where part of the series was filmed.

Trapped was our introduction to Nordic Noir – crime fiction that is deeply dark, brooding, and often brutal, unlike the often-stereotypical image of blonde, cheery Scandinavians frolicking in fields under the midnight sun. It is the antithesis of the popular British “cozy murder mystery” like Midsomer Murders, Father Brown, anything Agatha Christie and Grantchester. Henning Mankell is considered to be the father of Nordic Noir with his Kurt Wallander books. Other noted authors are Sweden’s Steig Larsson (The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo), Iceland’s Arnaldur Indriðason (Detective Erlendur), Norway’s Jo Nesbø (Detective Harry Hole). and Finland’s Leena Lehtolainen (Detective Maria Kallio).

In the first season of Trapped, Andre Olofsson, the police chief of an isolated town in Iceland, tries to unravel the murder of a man whose frozen torso is discovered in the harbor, while also dealing with his dysfunctional marriage. (Ólafur Darri Ólafsson, who bears a striking resemblance to our nephew Christopher, plays Andre) We saw it on Amazon Prime, but as of this writing it has moved to Plex, Pluto TV, and The Roku Channel. Watch the trailer here.

But I digress…

We hadn’t ordered room service for breakfast, so we had to get food in the World Café, a big mistake! There were no inside tables at 9a.m., so we filled our plates and went out to the deck, which was really cold. We lasted about 10 minutes before hustling back to the ship’s warmth.

We didn’t get a chance to visit any of the area’s highlights. Our previous excursions combined with the cold, damp weather left us tired and uncomfortable, and we didn’t book one of the bus tours. I had planned on the walking tour of Seyðisfjörður but only got as far as the port terminal before realizing it would not be a great idea. I bought a 2000 ISK (~ $14 US) potholder in the terminal with a 10,000 ISK bill (~ $72 US) just to get smaller denominations for tips and small purchases.

History of Seyðisfjörður
According to Landnámabók, the Icelandic Book of Settlement, Bjólfur (“Byol-foor”), blood brother of the powerful sorcerer Loðmundur the Old, settled in the fjord in the 11^th century. There are graves dating back to the 8^th century in the area around Seyðisfjörður. The town sits at the base of the mountain named after him, and Bjólfur is thought to be buried near the peak. Esja Architecture designed the Ring of Bjólfur a cantilevered 360° viewing platform, 650m/2133 ft. above the town, which is scheduled to be completed in 2025.

Seyðisfjörður began to develop in 1848 when Norwegian fishermen established the area as a fishing and trading post. There was a modern whaling station in nearby, now abandoned, Vestdalseyri (“Vest-dal-say-ree”) between 1864 and 1866. In 1906 the first telegraph cable from Europe to Iceland terminated in Seyðisfjörður. A dam created across a nearby river was used to create the first hydroelectric plant in Iceland in 1913, supplying electricity to homes and street lights.

Although neutral and united with Denmark, the British Royal Navy and Royal Marines preemptively invaded and occupied Iceland in 1940. The Germans sank the British oil tanker El Grillo (The Cricket) sitting in Seyðisfjörður’s port, on February 11, 1944. The Kaffi Lára El Grillo Bar (named after the El Grillo and the previous occupant, the “legendary” Lára) serves meat, fish and a wide variety of Icelandic beers.

In December 2020 heavy rain triggered a series of mudslides which destroyed twelve houses, damaged more than forty others and the Technical Museum of Iceland. Seyðisfjörður was evacuated and the residents didn’t return until October 2021.

Seyðisfjörður has relied heavily on tourism, even more after Brim Seafood Company’s local, outdated fish-processing plant shut down in 2023.

The Smyril Line’s ferry Norröna, registered in the Faroe Islands, sails between Seyðisfjörður, the Faroe Islands and Hirtshals, Denmark mid-March through late November. The terminal is an international port, so one must show a passport when going through the building in either direction, even though our ship was docked there. (The ferry was central to Trapped Season One’s plot.)

The Road not Traveled
I did some research for this post about the opportunities we missed.

Seyðisfjarðarkirkja (“say-this-fyar-thar-kir-kya””), the iconic Blue Church, is one of the most famous sights in Seyðisfjörður, sitting at one end of Norðurgata (“North-ur-ga-ta”), the Rainbow Walk.

*Walking tour with the Blue Church in the background.*

*Seyðisfjarðarkirkja and the Rainbow Walk*

Skálanes (“Skau-la-nes”) Nature and Heritage Center sits on 1250-hectares/3100-acres about 17.4km/11mi northeast of Seyðisfjörður. More than forty bird species make their homes in the cliffs along the coast. Arctic terns and eider ducks have the largest colonies in the area. The ducks shed down from their breasts to keep their eggs warm. Eider down is an excellent insulator and harvesting the down is an Icelandic tradition. People use hay or seaweed to replace the down.

Seyðisfjörður has become a cultural center for artistic creativity. The Skaftfell Center for Visual Art was founded in honor of Dieter Roth, an influential Swiss-German artist who lived here in his later years. The Center supports established and ascending artists with a residency program, hosting exhibitions and seminars. The Skaftfell Bistro, on the Center’s ground floor, is said to be one of the best places to eat in Seydisfjordur,

One of the more intriguing parts of Skaftfell is Tvísöngur (“Tvis-on-gur”), which means “two songs” in Icelandic. Lukas Kühne, a German-born artist, created Tvísöngur, a “site specific sound sculpture” of five interconnected domes of varying dimensions, designed to resonate to specific tones. I don’t understand the physics, but if you are morbidly curious, here’s a link to an academic thesis: Lukas Kühne’s Tvísöngur: Sculpture for a Concrete, Uncompressed Voice

Fjarðarheiði (“Fyar-thar-hay-thi”) is a 24.5km/15.22mi long mountain pass between Seyðisfjörður and Egilsstaðir (“Ae-yil-sta-thir”). The drive takes one from lush countryside to barren tundra at the 623m/2,043ft peak. It is a rather scenic drive if one is blessed with good weather. (We would likely have driven through fog if we’d made the trip). The Fjarðará River (“Fyar-tha-ra”) runs west along the roadway from Seyðisfjörður and is a good place for flyfishing in the summer. During the winter one can ski at Stafdalur Ski Station, (“Staff-da-lure”) a short 7.8km/4.8mi from Seyðisfjörður.

There are several waterfalls between in the area, the largest one being Gufufoss (“Goo-fu-foss”) about 4km/2.5mi southwest of Seyðisfjörður. Gufufoss means “steam waterfall” in Icelandic, so named because of the heavy mists that rise from the base of the falls. Gljúfurfoss (“Glue-fur-foss”), one of two falls with the same name is 5.1km/3mi west of Gufufoss, just east of Lake Heiðarvatn (“Hay-thar-vat”), and not to be confused with the other Lake Heiðarvatn, north of Vik in Southern Iceland.

Fardagafoss (“Far-da-ga-foss”) is 5.4km/3.5mi east of Egilsstaðir, at the roots of Fjarðarheiði. Ancient folklore told of a giant female troll with a large cauldron filled with gold who lived in the now-collapsed lava cave behind the falls. Sensing her coming demise, she pushed the kettle into a deep hole in another, different, falls named Gufufoss. Legend says you can see the kettle’s handle when the water level drops. One can also explore the Fardagafoss Hiking Trail.

We opted to have lunch again at the Pool Grill, then headed back to our room. Peg spent the afternoon reading and I decided to go back to the Nordic Spa and the timing couldn’t have been better. The first time I saw the spa was early evening, just before dinner and the pool looked like old people soup. This time there was no one in the hot tub, so I tossed my towel and robe on one of the loungers and simmered for about fifteen minutes. From there I went to the steam room, then the snow room. There was still no snow, just the pile of slush in the corner.

Afternoon Tea
Back from the spa, Peg suggested we attend the daily “afternoon tea” in the lanai off the pool deck. A British tradition, afternoon tea was traditionally held around 4pm, when the idle rich indulged in finger sandwiches, scones and pastries along with their tea. High tea was a hardier meal the working class consumed after work. (Remember Roger Daltry in a tub of Heinz Baked Beans: “What’s for tea?”)

We sat on comfortable, low-backed seats with a grand view of the harbor and grey skies. One of the waitstaff brough a plate of scones followed by a three-tiered tray of finger sandwiches and pastries. Peg ordered a pot of tea, and I decided to try out a shot of Linie (“Lee-nee”) a Norwegian aquavit made from potato, flavored with caraway dill, fennel, anise and coriander. It is then matured at sea, in Oloroso sherry casks, during a round-trip voyage between Norway and Australia while crossing the “LINE” (equator) twice. It was…interesting, not as vile as Malört. I thought I’d avail myself of Iceland’s Black Death (Brennivin) before we left.

The remainder of the trip was disappointing; I’ll address that in the next post

Photo Credits
Featured image: Seyðisfjörður town view, Kasa Fue September 2019, 10:19:01. Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license.
Seyðisfjarðarkirkja and the Rainbow Walk Saifunny 26 July 2018. Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International
Tvísöngur, listaverk eftir Lukas Kühne frá árinu 2012, staðsett á Seyðisfirði. Cinquantecinq 6 July 2020. Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International
All other photos mine

Christmas in Iceland

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People who have never been to Iceland mistakenly believe it is a year-round frozen wasteland covered in glaciers with marauding polar bears. But Icelandic winters aren’t as cold as one might think because the warm currents of the North Atlantic Gyre create a milder climate. Average December temperatures in Reykjavik and Southern Iceland are in the low 30s, while they are about 15° colder in the northern regions.

Reykjavik has around 12”-16” of snow every year but gets rain more often than not. The north, being colder, gets far more snow, which is great for the ski resorts in Ísafjörður, Akureyri and Seyðisfjörður.

The long, dark nights are the real killer, with only 4-5 hours of daylight in Reykjavik and about an hour less in the north. However, this means more time for viewing the Northern Lights when the skies are clear.

Despite the cold and darkness, the Icelandic people welcome the holiday season with 26 days of Jól (“Yule”), embracing culture, traditions, festivities, food and more. It begins on December 12 with the appearance of the first Yule Lad and continues until January 6.

“Gleðileg Jól!” (“Gley-thi-leg Yole”) is “Merry Christmas” in Icelandic.

Aðventukrans – Advent Wreaths
Icelanders are predominantly Lutheran, and like Catholics, they celebrate Advent, the four weeks leading up to Christmas. Originating in Germany, Aðventukrans (“Ath-ven-tu-kranz”) Advent wreaths, are based on a pre-Christian Germanic ritual anticipating spring’s return. The evergreen ring symbolizes the continuation of life. There are three purple or blue candles symbolizing Hope, Faith and Peace, and one rose candle symbolizing Joy.

Making Adventurkrans is an Icelandic family Christmas tradition. They light the candles, one by one, each Sunday before Christmas; the rose candle is lit on the Third Sunday of Advent, also known as Gaudete.. People will say a short prayer or blessing after lighting the candles and some will light a white candle in the center of the wreath for Christmas Eve or Day.

(Our pageantry-obsessed former priest wasn’t satisfied with any old Advent wreaths. He commissioned a four-foot Advent wreath on a circular metal frame, which descended from the ceiling via a remote-controlled winch, with three-inch diameter, 18-inch candles at $25 each. Predictably, it failed to work one year and had to be repaired at considerable cost.)

Christmas Markets
Every weekend people can flock to Christmas markets that are similar to the Christkindlmarket in Chicago:

Downtown Reykjavik’s Ingólfstorg Square becomes Jólaborgin (“Yol-a-bor-gin) or Yule Town. The Icelandic telecommunications company, Nova, builds an ice rink in the square and rents out skates and helmets. There are shops in the nearby Christmas Market in Austurvöllur (“Ooey-stir-vooy-thlur̥) Square for traditional Icelandic gifts like their famous wool sweaters. There are games and goodies for kids as well as musical performances.

The Christmas Village in Hafnarfjorður,(“Haf-na-fyor-thur”) a port town about 10km/6mi southwest of downtown Reykjavik, features shops selling handcrafted gifts and jewelry, and food stalls selling cookies, hot drinks and smoked lamb. There’s live music, storytelling and the occasional elf lurking about.

Christmas Market at Elliðavatnsbær in Heiðmörk(“Heyth-mork”), is located in a forest preserve 15 minutes outside Reykjavik. The local Reykjavík Forestry Association, “combines holiday cheer with sustainability,” selling eco-friendly products and locally grown Christmas trees. Click here for a Christmas greeting.

Christmas at Árbæjarsafn (“Ar-bay-yar-saf”), Iceland’s Open-Air Museum is open year-round and tells the story of Iceland’s past through historic buildings. In the summer museum staff dress in period costumes and do “chores” like smoking meat and spinning wool. (I wonder if they get a Britney Spears look-alike to churn butter for them.) During Advent the museum provides a “traditional Icelandic Christmas” experience. Visitors can make candles and bake laufabrauð, (“lauv ah brat”), Icelandic leaf bread.

Video: 6 Must-See Icelandic Christmas Markets in Reykjavik!

Jólasveinar – Thirteen Santas
Saint Nicholas, Europe’s Santa Claus is based on Nicholas of Myra, a 3^rd century bishop who became the patron saint of children and others. He leaves presents for good children on Saint Nicholas Day, the saint’s feast day, which Western European Christians celebrate on December 5 or 6 and Eastern European Christians celebrate on December 18 or 19.

Iceland does not have Santa Claus. Instead, the Icelandic people celebrate 13 days of Christmas with Jólasveinar, the Yule Lads. According to legend, the Yule Lads of yore were troublemakers whose names reflected the pranks for which they were known. The contemporary Yule Lads are more benevolent, and one may encounter them on the streets. Every night from December 12^th through December 24^th, one Yule Lad appears and leaves small gifts in shoes that children place in windows. They leave in the order they appeared, starting on December 25 until the last one disappears on January 6^th, not to be seen until the following season.

1.Stekkjastaur (Sheep-Cote-Clod): The first Lad to appear, he has two peg legs, harasses the sheep and sucks milk from them
2. Giljagaur (Gully Gawk): Hides in barns and steals milk froth from the buckets
3. Stúfur (Stubby): Very short and eats crusts from the pans he steals
4. Þvörusleikir (Spoon-Licker): Tall, thin, steals and licks þvörur (long wooden spoons)
5. Pottaskefill (Pot-Licker): Steals leftovers from pots
6. Askasleikir (Bowl Licker): Hides under beds and steals askur, one’s personal dining plate
7. Hurðaskellir (Door Slammer): Slams doors during the night
8. Skyrgámur (Skyr Gobbler): Obsessed with skyr, Icelandic yogurt
9. Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage Swiper):Hides in the rafters and steals smoked sausages
10. Gluggagægir (Window Peeper):Looks in people’s windows for things to steal
11. Gáttaþefur (Door Sniffer): Uses his large nose and keen sense of smell to find Laufabrauð.
12. Ketrókur (Meat Hook): Steals meat with a hook
13. Kertasníkir (Candle Beggar): Steals edible fat candles from children

One will often run into men dressed as Yule Lads roaming the streets of Reykjavik.

Santa’s Enforcers
European cultures created demon companions for Saint Nicholas: Krampus in Austria, Zwarte Piet in the Netherlands, Knecht Ruprecht in Germany, Père Fouettard in France, and Schmutzli in Switzerland. They were dark characters, sometimes depicted with horns who punished the bad children by beating them with birch rods or leaving them coal and stones instead of gifts and sweets.

Grýla, Troll Mother

Iceland has Grýla, the Yule Lads’ troll mother, a thoroughly unpleasant woman who has claws, hooves and a tail. She snatches naughty children, stuffs them into a sack and takes them back to her cave to be boiled in a cauldron and eaten. (I’m reminded of a quote by W.C. Fields: “There’s no such thing as a tough child – if you parboil them first for seven hours, they always come out tender.”)

Jólakötturinn, Grýla’s Bad Kitty

Grýla’s pet, Jólakötturinn (“Yo-la-ka-thur-in”), the Yule Cat is an enormous creature with glowing red eyes, sharp claws and whiskers,. It eats children who have not received any new clothes for Christmas, making them grateful for getting mundane gifts like socks, scarves or sweaters. (It’s thought that farmers used it as an “incentive” for workers to finish processing their wool before Christmas.) A large lighted statue of Jólakötturinn appears in downtown Reykjavik every year.

Read more about the Yule Lads, Grýla and Jólakötturinn.

Christmas Traditions
December 23 – Þorláksmessa(“thor laks messa”) –St. Thorlac’s Day
Named for Iceland’s patron saint, this is the final day of Christmas preparation. People celebrate by eating kæst skata (“kay-est skah-tah”), putrefied skate (stingray) that smells of ammonia, along with potatoes and sweet rye bread. Like hákarl (“har-kardl”), the infamous fermented shark, it is an acquired taste and definitely not for the faint of heart. (I’d rather indulge pasteles, the Puerto Rican version of Christmas tamales.)

December 24 – Aðfangadagur (“ahth fang a da gur”) Christmas Eve
Families gather on Aðfangadagur for dinner which may include:
• Hangikjöt (“han-gee-kot”) – lamb that was traditionally hung in a shed and smoked in sheep dung because the original settlers cut down all the birch trees. It is sliced and served hot or cold with potatoes, peas and laufabrauð.
• Hamborgarhryggur (“Ham-bor-gar-ree-gur”) – glazed smoked rack of pork, imported from Hamburg, Germany by way of Denmark. It is often served with caramelized potatoes and Waldorf salad (a classic side when I was a kid)
• Jólajógúrt (“yo-la-yo-gurt”), literally “Christmas yogurt,” available only during Christmas. It has an interesting list of ingredients, including strawberries, cocoa butter and cocoa paste, barley malt and malted wheat.
• Rjúpa (“ryoo-pa”) rock ptarmigan, a type of grouse, served with caramelized potatoes and red cabbage. It’s now a protected species and difficult to come by although the lucky may find it in certain restaurants.

Jólasmákökur
After dinner it’s time to bring out desserts and drinks. Nothing says Christmas like Jólasmákökur (“Yo-las-mah-koh-kur”), Icelandic Christmas cookies:
• Marens Kornflexkokur (Chocolate Cornflake Cookies): Made simply with egg-whites, sugar, chopped chocolate, corn flakes and vanilla. Our version is Cornflake Wreaths, cornflakes mixed with melted marshmallows dyed green, shaped into wreaths and then dotted with Red Hots
• Sörur (“Sore-oor”): Almond macaroons topped with chocolate butter cream, then dipped in a chocolate glaze. Also known as Sarah Bernhardt cookies, they were created in Copenhagen in 1911 as a tribute when she came to Denmark for the Danish publication of her memoirs.
• Lakkrístoppar (“Lah-krees-top-par”): Meringue cookies with chocolate and filling of choice, usually licorice.
• Spesíur (“spay-see-ur”): A sugar cookie topped with a chocolate button, similar to our Peanut Blossoms, sans peanut butter. Offset the buttons and you can make googly eyes.
• Hálfmánar (“half-man-ar”): Sugar cookies made with cardamom and lemon. The rolled dough is cut into circles, filled with rhubarb jam and folded into half-moons before baking. The traditional Icelandic recipe uses ammonium carbonate (“smelling salts”) instead of baking powder, which gives your kitchen an obnoxious odor.
• Piparkökur (“pee-par-ko-kur”): gingerbread cookies with pepper added to the dough.
• Vanilluhringir (“van-eel-oo-ring-ere”): A classic vanilla cookie, shaped into rings, like one of the cookies in the Danish Cookie tins.
• Bessastaðakökur (“Bess-ah-stah-ta-ko-kur): A sugar cookie made with clarified butter, then topped with Demerara sugar and chopped almonds before baking. Bessastaðir is the Icelandic White House, and presidents often serve these cookies to guests.

Icelandic Christmas Drinks
• Malt og Appelsín also known as Jólaöl (“Yol-ahl”): Combination of two popular soft drinks, Egils Maltextrakt, and Egils Appelsín, a fizzy orange soft drink. People can combine the two at home or buy pre-mixed cans during the holidays. Pour the malt into the orange soda to avoid a Mentos and Coke explosion.

• Brennivín (“Bren-uh-vin”): the infamous ‘Black Death,” a potent akvavit/aquavit, made from fermented potatoes and flavored with caraway.
• Christmas Beers. Limited-edition brews available only at Christmastime with names such as:
○ Bjólfur Grenibjór: caramel and pine flavors
○ Magnús Frúktus (“fruity Christmas beer”): flavored with raspberries, blueberries, cherries and
vanilla.
○ Jólakisi IPA (“Christmas Cat beer”): tropical flavors of mango, pineapple, and passion fruit.
○ Einstök’s Icelandic doppelbock: A dark lager with roasted malt, caramel and coffee flavors.

Finally, at midnight, families will gather to open presents and partake in the cherished Icelandic tradition of exchanging books, known as Jólabókaflóð,(“Yol-ah-boke-ah-flot”) the Book Avalanche. It’s a time to curl up by the fire with hot cocoa and treats and share stories or read. Indeed, their love for books and storytelling is so great that one in ten Icelanders will publish a book!

December 25 – Jóladagur (“Yo-la-da-gur”) Christmas Day: The day after the night before is quieter, a time to relax, (and eat, of course!)

December 26 – Annar í jólum (“An-ar-ee-yo-lum”) Boxing Day: Literally “another one for Christmas” people leave their homes and gather with friends and family they may not have seen on this “second day of Christmas. Bars are open again and the party continues.

December 31 – Gamlársdagur (“Gam-lars-da-gur) New Year’s Eve: Translated as “Old Age Day,” Icelanders send out the old year with a bang. After yet another dinner, people will gather around 8:30pm at several sites in Reykjavik and in other towns for Áramótabrennur (“Ar-ah-mo-ta-bren-ur), the traditional New Year’s Eve bonfires. After that, everyone will go home to watch Áramótaskaup (“Ar-uh-moh-tas-kup”) the annual satirical sendup of the year’s events at 10:30pm. It’s comparable to John Oliver’s Last Week Tonight year end reviews.

Just before midnight people gather to watch fireworks displays and set off their own. Iceland Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR) teams use fireworks sales (this is the only time when private fireworks are legal) to raise funds, taking in about 800 million ISK ($6,284,368) in 2022. One can also watch the Reykjavik fireworks from anywhere in the world, courtesy of RÚV TV online (6pm CST). People wish each other, “Gleðilegt nýtt ár!” (“Glee-tha-leg-neet-ar”) which means “Happy New Year!” in Icelandic. The celebrations continue well into the night, with parties, gatherings, and festivities, much like the annual debauchery in Times Square.

January 1 – Nýársdagur (“Nee-yaus-da-gur”) (New Year’s Day): Aside from nursing hangovers, on New Year’s Day people will leave their homes open or set a place at the table to welcome elves and trolls.

January 6 – Þrettándinn (“Thre-tan-din”): Also known as “Old Christmas” and “Second New Year’s Eve,” January 6 marks the end of the Christmas season. Christians celebrate Epiphany, the day the Magi arrived in Bethlehem and God revealed Himself through the baby Jesus. Icelanders also celebrate Þrettándinn with more bonfires in honor of the fairies and elves that are leaving. Many local celebrations elect Fairy Queens and Kings who lead participants in “elf dances” around the fire.

Amusing folk legends arose around Þrettándinn. One is that cows miraculously begin speaking in rhyming couplets that will drive anyone listening mad. Another is that seals are the soldiers from Pharaoh’s army who drowned in the Red Sea. They shed their skins, becoming humans who dance naked on beaches before retrieving them and returning to the sea. The last Yule Lad, Kertasníkir (Candle Beggar), leaves until the following December 23.

Read about the Westman Islands’ traditions: Þrettándinn Iceland’s Enchanting Celebration (Twelfth Night)

Photo credits:
Iceland Ornament: Joe Shlabotnik on Visualhunt.com
Hafnarfjorður Christmas Market: Mórka on VisualHunt.com
Yule Lads in costume: eeems on Visualhunt.com
Icelandic Yule Lads: Joe Shlabotnik on VisualHunt
Grýla: Thorsteinn1996 Creative Commons
Christmas Cat: Paul-W on Visualhunt.com
Jolalol: Malene Erkmann on VisualHunt
Reykjavik Fireworks: Neil Melville-Kenney on Visualhunt.com

Day 4 – Akureyri, Capital of North Iceland

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Akureyri (English “ah-kuh-rair-ee”; Icelandic “ah-kyr-ey-ri”) is one destination I really want to spend more time in if/when we return to Iceland! Nicknamed “The Capital of the North”, it is the second largest town in Iceland with a population of around 20,000. Akureyriis 90km/54mi from the Arctic Circle and sits at the head of Iceland’s longest fjord, Eyjafjörður, which stretches 60 km/36 mi to the Greenland Sea.

Akureyri was founded in the 9^th century by Helgi Eyvindarson, who was born in Dublin but was put into foster care in the Hebrides. When his parents reclaimed him two years later, he was so emaciated that they nicknamed him magri (The Lean). Helgi was a peaceful man and granted land to several families who settled in the area. That peace ended a couple of hundred years later when the Sturlungar clan, at the behest of Hakkon IV, then King of Norway, stirred up trouble in 1220 while attempting to bring Iceland under Norwegian rule. The conflict ended in 1264 when both sides kissed and made up.

In the mid-1500s Danish merchants used Akureyri as a trading post and warehouse, returning to Denmark during the winter. People started settling there permanently in 1778. The Danes introduced the locals to agriculture in the 1800s and the town started to grow substantially in 1862. Fishing, fish processing and farming became the main industries.

World War II dragged Akureyri into the 20^th century after Britain, Canada and the US “preemptively” invaded Iceland to keep the Germans out which, understandably, did not sit well with the residents. The Allies based the Norwegian-British 330 squadron in Akureyri. (The British built bases in Reykjavik and near Selfoss; the Americans built Naval Air Station Keflavik, part of which is now Keflavik International Airport.)

Today Akureyri’s main economic sources are fishing (Samherji hf, Brim hf), higher education (The University of Akureyri-founded 1987), the Einstök Ölgerð brewery, and tourism. Akureyrarflugvöllur is an international airport serving destinations in the rest of Europe as well as regional flights from Reykjavik.

We disembarked and boarded our bus after another delightful breakfast courtesy of Viking Mars room service. Our tour guide today was a very personable young woman from Poland. The first thing she pointed out after we left the dock area was the heart-shaped red traffic light. They were put up to give people a sense of community and hope after the island’s banking system collapsed in 2008, decimating the Icelandic economy. On the bright side, Iceland sentenced its bankers to a combined 96 years in prison instead of bailing them out.

We took the main road out of the commercial district and turned on to a street running through a residential area with charming houses on our way to the local ski resort. (WordPress can’t accommodate the video I shot but you can view it here on Google Photos.)

This is Skautahöllin Akureyri, run by the Skating Club of Akureyri. It is open to the public and hosts the SA Víkingar hockey games, figure skating shows and curling championships. Ya gotta have something to do during those long winters.

From here the road made a gradual incline to Mt. Hlíðarfjall Ski Centre which looks rather bleak with no snow. Check out the current conditions with their webcams.

We had a great view of our ship in the harbor.

I commend the person or persons who took the time to look up all the distances to ski resorts around the world from here.

The bus took us back down the mountain to town, where we stopped at the Akureyri Botanic Garden. Founded in 1912 by the all-woman Akureyri Park Society, it began as a recreation area and attraction for the town and was the first public park in Iceland. The municipality of Akureyri took over and started the Botanic Garden in 1957.

Many of the plants are Arctic or Alpine, native to Iceland, but there are several thousand other plant species.

We took far too many pictures to fit in this blog; you can view all of them here.

Peg had difficulty navigating the gravel pathway, and I got tired of walking, so, predictably, I stopped here at LYST coffee shop to enjoy a cappuccino and people-watching.

We left the Botanic Garden and drove by an amazing site, at least for Americans living in colder climates. The air temperature was about 58°F/14°C but there were many people swimming in the outdoor Akureyri Thermal Pool, which has indoor and outdoor pools, hot tubs and a cold bath, waterslides, and areas for sunbathing, all heated geothermally. Our guide explained that Iceland encourages physical activity for all and the island has the highest percentage of people engaging in exercise in all of Europe. Even the smaller towns in the country have community pools

The bus continued to the harbor, passing Akureyri’s landmark Lutheran church, Akureyrarkirkja. Built in 1940, it was designed by Guðjón Samúelsson, the architect who created Reykjavík’s majestic Hallgrímskirkja, and has a 3200-pipe organ, a floating crucifix, and a ship suspended from the ceiling, paying homage to an old Nordic tradition of votive offerings to protect those at sea. This link takes you to the church website.

Photo from Wikimedia Commons by Biekko. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0

The last point of interest was Hafnarstræti, Akureyri’s shopping district featuring stores, restaurants, bars and lodging. If you’re young and looking for a bargain, you can stay in a capsule sleeping pod at Hafnarstræti Hostel for about $60/night. Hey, Booking.com gives it a 9.4, so it can’t be bad!

We stopped at the port gift shop before reboarding the ship. Peg checked out the Icelandic wool sweaters which are beautiful but very rough. I picked up a couple of sausages which I discovered were made from leftover pork parts when I translated labels! Peg got chocolate bars and hard candy for the family, along with this figurine. Leppalúði (“lep-u-loo-ti”) is “the lazy husband” of Grýla (“Gree-la”) and the father of Iceland’s 13 Yule Lads , trolls who make their appearance nightly from December 12 until Christmas. (There is also a giant Christmas Yule Cat that eats children who haven’t gotten new clothes for the holiday!)

We were too late for lunch in the World Café when we returned and opted for the Pool Grill, just off the pool deck. One can get burgers, sandwiches or hot dogs and there’s a soup and salad bar. We opted for the famous Icelandic hot dogs which are longer than the standard American dog and made from lamb instead of beef or pork, but still tastes like a regular hot dog.

After lunch I headed for the Nordic Spa on Deck 1 at the front of the ship, down a hallway past the Living Room, passing a shop, a hair salon and a fitness center along one side of the hall. The opposite wall was done in a faux-birch paneling and there’s a built-in seating area across from a check-in station.

Peg had recommended I book a massage before our trip. I had signed up for a deep tissue massage, ignoring her sage advice to choose something more relaxing. I’ve had lower back pain for decades and really thought this would help. This Healthline article touts deep tissue massage as offering “both physical and psychological benefits. It can relieve muscle pain and stiffness and provide stress-relieving relaxation for the body and mind.” Silly me.

The young man at the desk took me to the men’s locker room. There is a long counter as one enters; large, fluffy grey bath towels and smaller hand towels sit in wall mounted shelves above it. A swimsuit water extractor/salad spinner was built into the near side, just opposite the door. A naked old guy was using the extractor, standing in front of the same door through which my female masseuse would enter several minutes later

The rest of the locker room was impressive, There were two showers and a restroom on the right and a bank of lockers on the left. Each open locker contains a three-quarter length white robe, a towel, and a basket with foam slippers. The user locks it with the ship keycard after closing the door; it can only be opened with the same keycard. (I suspect the staff can override the lock in an emergency.) A sauna and a “cold plunge;” a four-foot-deep pool of really cold water, were at the end!

An L-shaped hallway led around the back to the main pool room, which featured a small “geothermal” hot tub sitting inside one corner of a larger pool. (I don’t know what made it geothermal since the water temperatures seemed to be the same.) There were several loungers on each side of the pools and in a larger area between the steam room and the “snow room” just opposite. One is supposed to enjoy the “refreshing” cold amidst gently falling snow, but all I saw was a pile of partly melted snow against the wall.

I sat in one of the chairs along the wall and listened to soothing music while contemplating nothing in particular until my masseuse , a tiny Indonesian woman, called me from the locker room door and led me to one of the massage rooms. There are few words to describe the ensuing thirty minutes except to say that by the end I felt like the suitcase manhandled by the gorilla in the memorable 1971 American Tourister commercial. Next time I will listen to Peg. (No, you won’t. You do whatever the hell you want!” )

After another delicious dinner we went to the Atrium on Deck 2, overlooking the Living room, and listened to the nightly flute/piano duo, then retreated to our stateroom where we listened to one of the port talks on Viking history (which is when I learned the origin of the Bluetooth symbol). We skipped the ABBA tribute later that evening in The Theatre, opting to open the celebratory bottle of champagne we’d been saving.

Follow these links for more information:
Akureyri, the Capital of North | Culture, History and Activities
The Ultimate Guide to Akureyri in Iceland

Featured Image: Downtown Akureyri seen from Vaðlaheiði. Skapti Hallgrímsson, 17 October 2020. This file is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0 All other photos are mine except where noted.

Timmerman’s Supper Club

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(Note: I’m taking a short break from the Iceland travelogue.)

Peg and I went to Galena, IL, a quaint town cum tourist trap in the northeastern corner of Illinois, just across the Mississippi River from Iowa. One of our food destinations was a supper club in East Dubuque.

Anyone who lived in the Midwest in the middle of the 20^th century is familiar with the supper club. Initially an alcohol workaround during Prohibition (private clubs could sell liquor to members), supper clubs became social destinations during the 1940s through the 1960s. They were family-owned restaurants often on the fringes of rural towns and provided patrons with the classic evening out. One started with cocktails at the bar followed by dinner and ended with after-dinner drinks and dancing.

Men often ordered an Old Fashioned: simple syrup or a sugar cube dissolved in a bit of water, bitters, ice and bourbon or rye, garnished with a Maraschino cherry. Others popular drinks were the Manhattan (rye or bourbon, sweet vermouth, bitters and the cherry) or the classic Martini (gin and dry vermouth garnished with a pimento-stuffed green olive or lemon twist). Cream drinks were popular after dinner, mostly among women, and were often made at home with ice cream when blenders became affordable.

Classic Cream Drinks
•Brandy Alexander: brandy or cognac, crème de cacao, cream.
•Pink Lady: gin, applejack, lemon juice, grenadine and a small egg white, shaken and garnished with a Maraschino cherry.
•Pink Squirrel: crème de Noyaux (or Amaretto, but it won’t be pink), crème de cacao, cream.
•Grasshopper: crème de menthe, white crème de cacao, cream.

The dining experience was very predictable. While perusing the menu, the waitstaff would bring a relish tray with carrot and celery sticks, diminutive sweet pickles, olives, radishes and green onions along with packets of Club Crackers and those dry “breadsticks,” served with a dipping sauce or a spreadable cheddar we knew as “Bar Scheeze.” One could get shrimp cocktail or oysters for an appetizer.

Entrees were traditional American cuisine: steaks, chops, and chicken. Supper clubs usually had the Friday Night Fish Fry and Prime Rib on Friday and Saturday nights. Meals came with soup and salad (iceberg lettuce, a strip of carrot, a little red cabbage, maybe a tomato slice). Salad dressing options were usually oil and vinegar, Thousand Island and French, which you spooned from stainless steel three-bowl condiment server the waitstaff whisked from one table to another. The classic baked potato with sour cream and chives was standard. All this came with hot bread or rolls and butter.

Dessert and coffee came after dinner and before dancing. Any leftovers went into a paper “doggie bag,” often imprinted with a happy cartoon dog. There were no polystyrene containers or foil trays with non-recyclable plastic lids.

My brother-in-law’s mentioned Timmerman’s Supper Club in East Dubuque, IL when he heard of our plans. He and his sons often go to the casinos in Dubuque during their annual golf outings at Eagle Ridge in Galena. “It sits on a bluff overlooking the river. Zimmerman’s or something like that. We’ve never been there but maybe you can check it out.” (I didn’t know that Peg had already made a reservation.)

We headed west towards East Dubuque on US-20, a four-lane running through rolling hills. We’ve had a warm summer and early fall, so there was very little color in the trees; it would probably be spectacular in another two weeks. About twenty-five minutes later we turned on to Timmerman drive, a rather steep hill leading to a cemetery on the left and a ridiculously large parking lot on the right. I let Peg out under the canopy at the entrance before parking and joining her.

It was like going back in time 60 years! Think of Kellerman’s from Dirty Dancing.

The building is brick and concrete block, painted a warm cream color. There are portraits of the founders in the entry, above the wheelchair lift. Wrought iron railing, covered with many years of paint, lead up the stairs and along the waiting area. The doors and trim are all a dark walnut; the swinging doors to the kitchen have the old diamond windows.

The dining room is the size of a basketball court with high ceilings, laminated wood beams and acoustic tiles on the ceiling. There’s a large, blue sailfish mounted on the wall above two large china cabinets. Enormous plate-glass windows in aluminum frames, tilted out about five degrees from the vertical and running from the ceiling almost to the floor, look out over the Mississippi. Bluish sunscreens and motorized canopies shield patrons from direct sunlight until the sun goes down, when the staff retract them to maximize the view.

There are large valances running the length of the windows, with narrow tied back largely decorative drapes hanging about every 10 feet. I noticed three of the old wood and black grille loudspeakers mounted near the ceiling.

Tables seating two to eight people are positioned strategically throughout the dining room, allowing the waitstaff to move among the maximum 200 guests with grace and style. There is a half-wall in front of the kitchen entrance, topped with a decorative wooden lattice. The Palisades Room, to the left of the main dining room, has a private bar and is available for social events. (I suspect it was used for dancing during Timmerman’s heyday.)

The wait staff are all dressed in black. The high-school aged busboys wore black pants, long-sleeved white shirts and black bowties. They reminded me of my days bussing tables at the Lamp Lite Room at the Bowl-Mor in Streator, IL, minus the bowtie.

The hostess took us to our table and left us with menus, large, faux-leather-bound things with printed pages inserted into stitched plastic protectors. After we were seated our waiter gave each of us a slice of cornbread and took drink orders. Peg wanted a dry Beefeater martini with extra olives while I went off the board and got the Pomegranate Martini (citrus vodka, triple-sec and pomegranate juice) instead of the usual gin and tonic. We ordered the stuffed mushroom appetizer while perusing the menus; the aforementioned complimentary relish tray now cost nine bucks. Nostalgia ain’t cheap!

We toasted twenty-five years of marriage, having done that without strangling each other and defying the odds a couple of people had given us, as we watched the sun set over the river.

Peg ordered a ribeye with a baked potato (with sour cream, of course); I opted for the fried walleye and wild rice medley as the only time to get walleye at home is at Culver’s during Lent. Peg’s steak came on the classic sizzling steak tray, the wooden base darkened by the heat of many years. My walleye took up the entire platter; the rice came in an oval side dish.

Our waiter cleared the table once we’d finished, and Peg’s leftover ribeye had been saved in a black takeout container. He then brought us an anniversary dessert-a warm chocolate chip cookie drizzled with chocolate and caramel, topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a single birthday candle.

Getting back to Galena was a bit challenging. We had to make a right turn (the median made turning left impossible), which took us over the bridge into Dubuque. I turned onto US-61, missing the first and only opportunity to loop back around to the bridge. We passed by Q Casino before crossing over another bridge into Wisconsin and then back into Illinois on a winding two-lane. We were finally pointed in the right direction and made it back without hitting a deer on the now pitch-black highway.

It was a perfect conclusion to a memorable weekend.

If you want an illuminating look at the supper club experience, check out Sherry Ott’s Exploring the Culture of Wisconsin Supper Clubs

Day 3 – Ísafjörður and Bolungarvík

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As we pulled into each port, we were awakened every morning by the cheery voice of our Cruise Director, Katy Syrett, a dark-haired Scottish beauty who also sings and dances in the after hours. It reminded me a bit of the daily announcements that greeted Patrick McGoohan in The Prisoner, without the sinister undertone.

Ísafjörður (“ee-sa-fyo-tthur”) is the largest town in the Westfjords, which is relative, given only 2,700 people live there permanently. It is located on the Skutulsfjörður (“skoo-tuls-fyo-tthur”) fjord, a branch of the larger Ísafjarðardjúp (“ee-sa-fyo-tthar-djup”) fjord. In 2023 Ísafjörður extended the port to accommodate larger cruise ships, but also set a limit of 5,000 passengers disembarking per day to avoid overwhelming the town’s resources.

Our ship docked near the Naustahvilft Troll Seat, (“noy-stah-klift”) a large depression in the mountains next to the fjord. According to legend, sunlight turns trolls into stone and Naustahvlift was created when a troll hid in the hollow in the cliff to avoid the approaching dawn. Her enormous weight turned it into a seat; the adventurous can hike the trail and take in a spectacular view of Ísafjörður.

Today’s activity was touring Ísafjörður and Bolungarvik (“bol-un-gar-vik”), a small fishing village about 8 miles north. We disembarked from Deck A, the lowest passenger-accessible deck, this time through a narrow corridor and on to a long ramp with a very slight decline. Getting back on the ship was a bit of a nightmare as we ran into people headed out for the next tour. After that, the staff started staggering departures and arrivals.

Our tour guide was a pleasant and amusing young man from the U.K. who was far easier to understand and more personable than our native Icelandic guide on Sunday. We passed by two men loading a stretcher into a hearse as we were leaving the dock. I don’t think it was anyone from our ship, but you never know.

The bus meandered through the narrow village streets, past small guest houses and hotels in the city center. Our guide pointed to a construction site where Ísafjörður is adding land mass into the harbor to build student housing for the University Centre of the Westfjords, whose enrollment increased substantially after COVID restrictions were lifted.

We headed out of town on the narrow highway hugging the shoreline. We saw four large, circular structures jutting out of the water; these are open-net salmon farms which contribute to the economy, but at a cost. Farmed salmon have escaped from the pens, threatening the survival of wild salmon, whose global numbers have been dwindling. Sea lice and the pesticides used to treat them, along with the salmon’s own waste, pollute the water and may cause dangerous algae growth.

The bus entered the Bolungarvíkurgöng (“bol-un-gar-vik-uhr-gung”) Tunnel a few miles further along the road. The tunnel, 5.4km/3.36mi long, was opened in 2010, bypassing the treacherous coastal road which was susceptible to rock falls and avalanches from the Óshlíð (“ohs-lith”) mountains. The tunnel is well lit and there are turnouts along the way for passing.

*Entrance to Bolungarvíkurgöng. Christian Bickel, 2011.* *License* *CC BY-SA* *2014*

The Vestfjarðagöng (“vest-fyar-tha-gung”)Tunnel, west of Ísafjörður, is the longest tunnel in Iceland and has three arms which meet in the middle. That would have been an intriguing sight!

*Entrance to Vestfjardargöng.* *Bromr, 2009.* License CC BY-SA 2014

Trolls, elves, monsters and ghosts are part of Iceland’s storytelling heritage. Most Icelanders hedge their bets and won’t openly deny their existence…just in case. So, when the Bolungarvíkurgöng tunnel was being excavated, the construction workers started the day by apologizing to the trolls within the mountain for disturbing them…just in case.

Bolungarvík is a small coastal village (pop. 1,022), founded in 940 AD. It was one of the largest fishing stations in Iceland for centuries. Fishing and fish processing became the primary source of income at the end of the 19^th century. The town was inaccessible except by boat until 1950 when the first road to the village was completed. Between April and September sport fishermen flock to Bolungarvík angling for cod, redfish, haddock and halibut. (The average halibut is 100kg/220lbs!)

According to legend, Þuríður (“thur-ee-thur”) Sundafyllir and her brother, Þjóðólfur (“thyo-thol-fur”), the founders of Bolungarvík, got into a pissing contest after Þuríður granted her brother all the land he could fence in one day. Þjóðólfur didn’t fence as much land as he’d anticipated and became angry when his sister wouldn’t let him have any more. Out for revenge, he tried to steal one of Þuríður’s oxen, but she caught him.

The siblings were also sorcerers and cast spells on each other. Þuríður said, (and I’m paraphrasing), “Yo, sheep dung for brains! For trying to steal my ox, you shall become a rock that birds will defecate on for eternity!” Þjóðólfur turned to stone and fell into the bay, where birds shit on him until 1936 when, according to the locals, he mysteriously disappeared.

Þjóðólfur retaliated. “You wanna play that game, bee-yach? YOU shall forever become a rock where the winds blow the strongest.” And with that, Þuríður turned into a stone that sits at the top of Óshlíð. How he managed to cast a spell when he was already turned to stone was never explained in the legend.

We drove through town and stopped at Félagsheimilið Bolungarvík, (“fya-lath-shay-mi-lith”) the town’s community center, where a local musician performed two of his own compositions. The first was about an obscure wrestling tradition, (possibly Glíma (“glee-ma”), but I wouldn’t swear to it) and the second lamented the long Icelandic winters. Both were in Icelandic, so we couldn’t understand any of the lyrics, but he was passionate.

We reboarded the bus and on our way out of town our guide talked about the Arctic Tern, a bird that one site described as “so graceful and yet such a nuisance.” Instead of picking secluded areas, terns build their nests wherever the hell they want and become very aggressive if an unsuspecting human wanders near the eggs. They will dive bomb one’s head and, if they are particularly miffed, shit on you for good measure. Our guide was once attacked trying to draw the terns away from the tourists in his charge.

The bus turned around across from Óshólar (“oh-sho-lar”) Lighthouse and drove back to the Ósvör (“ohs-vur”) Maritime Museum, a 19^th century replica of a fishing station. There are three small buildings: a fish drying platform, a salting shed, and crew quarters with tools. An old fishing boat sits on the beach. The museum’s guide is dressed in traditional sheepskin fishing gear, minus the fish oil waterproofing actual fishermen used, which gave it an offensive smell! The path to the buildings was rocky and somewhat steep, so we skipped this part of the tour. (Note to self: next time bring the walking sticks you packed!)

*Ósvör Maritime Museum. Diego Delso, delso.photo, License* *CC BY-SA* *2014*

*Traditional Fisherman, Bolungavík, Iceland. TommyBee. Public domain*

The bus took us back into Bolungarvík where we turned around again and headed back to Ísafjörður. We went through the town center, past the local hospital and Íþróttahúsið á Torfnesi (“ee-throw-tha-hoo-sith”), the Torfnes Sports Hall, then west out of town to the Bunárfoss (“boo-nyar-foss”) Waterfall in the Tungudalur (“toon-goo-tha-lur”) Valley, where our guide promised us we would sample a glass of the purest water in Iceland.

Bunárfoss is not as spectacular as Seljalandsfoss or Skogafoss, but it’s still impressive. The more physically fit can climb 80m/262ft to the top of the falls for a view of the valley below. The waters continue in a gentle brook.

We got off the bus and the driver handed us plastic cups while our guide filled a restaurant style plastic pitcher with water from the stream, doling out samples to the curious. He then noted the water was so pure because there were no sheep in the mountains to contaminate it. It tasted remarkably like…water.

*Our group, waiting to sample the waters.*

Thirst quenched, we handed our cups to the driver and boarded the bus. Satisfied we were all accounted for, our guide told us a tale about a different tour.

“Before leaving, the driver asked if anyone was missing. No one spoke up so he pulled out of the parking lot. Just then he noticed a woman in the road behind him, waiving her hands frantically. He stopped and said ‘I thought no one was missing.’ A man a few seats back said, ‘That’s my wife. She’s always late for everything, so I thought this would teach her a lesson.’ “

Dead man walking…

On our way back to the ship we passed the Tungudalsvöllur (“toon-goo-tha-lur-vote-lur”) Golf Course: 9 holes, par 70 and a three-month season. Probably the only thing my brother-in-law would find worthwhile about this trip.

I investigated “Things to do in Ísafjörður” when I began this blog post and discovered there are two ski resorts on the mountains above Bunárfoss. Tunguladur, for downhill skiing, has 3 lifts and a ski lodge. Seljalandsdalur (“sel-ya-lands-da-lur”) is for cross-country skiing. I’m writing this during the second week of September and Ísafjörður already has snow and winter weather warnings!

Easter in Iceland is a five-day national holiday, from Holy Thursday until Easter Monday, and an opportunity for the hardy to “…flee to Iceland’s winter resorts where they ski from dawn until dark, get wasted on Black Death eat buried shark and boogey until breakfast.” (Black Death is Brennivin, Iceland’s version of aquavit, a variety of herb-flavored liqueurs that are not for the faint of heart. Chicago’s ghastly Jeppson’s Malört is another version of aquavit.)

Read Andrew Slough’s colorful account of Easter in the Westfjords here: Iceland: Skiing Isafjördur’s Chutes.

Next port of call: Akureyri. The “Capital of the North,” the Botanical Gardens, and a grand view of the town from their ski-resort.

Featured Image: Hansueli Krapf, 2002. Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license. All other pictures are mine except where noted, and are used under the Creative Commons Share Alike public license. Click here for details: CC BY-SA.

Notes from Dr. Dave

Musings from forty plus years as an OB/GYN and a writer.

Author Archives: admin

Day 5 – Seyðisfjörður

Christmas in Iceland

Day 4 – Akureyri, Capital of North Iceland

Timmerman’s Supper Club

Day 3 – Ísafjörður and Bolungarvík