Dance, Monkey, Dance!

I really hate what our healthcare system has become after Corporate America took over!

I had a colonoscopy in 2021 during which my gastroenterologist, Benny Thomas removed a tubular adenoma, a type of precancerous polyp, along with three other polyps. I’ve had internal hemorrhoids for as long as I can remember, so occasional rectal bleeding has never been surprising. However, over the past few weeks I’ve had much more frequent bleeding, sometimes with little clots, which would be less concerning had I not had radiation for prostate cancer nineteen months ago. Radiation treats cancer but can also trigger new cancers.

All the large health care groups where I live use MyChart®, an electronic health record (EHR), which supplanted the old paper charts. I suspect I’m not the only one who has a love-hate relationship with it. Patients can look at test results and notes from office visits, make appointments online, and, most importantly, pay their outstanding bills or copays before office visits. They can communicate easily with their health care providers or authorized designee (read: nurse) through the messaging app. Or so I assumed.

My GI guy is affiliated with Pretentious Healthcare Network (PHN), not with my usual stable of providers at the eternally aggravating Suburban Medical Group (SMG). Ruthless University Bastards (RUB) is another predatory group in the area that has an unfortunate habit of gobbling up hospitals and stripping them of “frivolous” amenities the previous owners provided to make the lives of patients and staff a little more pleasant, all in the name of “fiscal responsibility.”

I signed into PHN’s MyChart to make an appointment, but the system thought I was a new patient, because my colonoscopy was a little more than three years previously. (Three years seems to be the magic cutoff; time to cull the herd.) Nope, you’re 2 months too late; too bad, so sad. Dr. Thomas’ first available appointment was in six months, and I really didn’t want to start over with a new physician, so I called “the office.”

Now, when I was a teenager growing up in small-town Illinois, accessing health care was far less complicated. My mother would call the doctor’s office and talk with his nurse (in the 1960s most physicians were men) who would take a message, put my mother on hold, talk with the doctor, and return with instructions to come to the office or sit tight. During the night, the doctor’s wife answered the phone so he could sleep, and she would tell you to go to the ER or take two aspirin and call the office in the morning.

Not anymore, Monty. There is no way in hell I can call any office directly. Instead, there is one phone number for all the physicians in a specific practice (internal medicine, pediatrics, cardiology, etc.), or, in PHN’s case, Specialty Care, which includes a host of specialists lumped together. Physicians and nurses, people who do actual work, are shackled by the system. We are all “only pawns in game of life.” It’s another reason I’m glad I retired.

I called Specialty Care on Monday morning, and the system immediately hung up. That is probably because the people who ignored their problems over the weekend call on Monday. I thought I’d be more successful waiting until Tuesday morning after the crowd thinned out.

I connected after a couple of rings:

“Thank you for calling Pretentious Healthcare Network’s medical specialties group. If you are having a life-threatening medical emergency, please hang up and dial 9-1-1 immediately as we’re not gonna waste time resuscitating your sorry ass over the phone. Now, what do you want? Are you calling about an appointment or test results?”
Yes
“Sorry, I didn’t understand that. If you are calling to make, cancel or reschedule an appointment, say ‘appointment.’ ”
Why the fuck didn’t you say that in the first place? You asked me a yes/no question!!!

After saying “appointments” a few times and hearing “I didn’t understand that” I got connected to a live human. I explained my situation: I was an established patient; I’d had significant rectal bleeding for the past few weeks; I’ve had precancerous polyps taken out in 2021 and I had radiation in 2023. Dr. Thomas’s first available appointment on MyChart was in six months. She then asked the questions I needed to answer to continue my quest:

“What is your name?”
“What is your date of birth?”
“What is your address?”
“What is the air-speed velocity of an unladen swallow?”

Satisfied with my responses, she said she’d relay this to the doctor’s nurse who would then call me back.

I got a call three hours later from Gracie, Dr. Thomas’s nurse. I repeated my story. Did she not understand the message from the gatekeeper or is she testing me to determine if there are any discrepancies? I explained twice that I had radiation therapy which ended in March 2023.

“You need to get a CBC.”
“I had one a few weeks ago.”
“I don’t see it here.”
“You won’t because I get my bloodwork done with an outside service.”
“Do you have the results?”
“Yes, let me pull it up on my computer. Would you like me to send you a copy?”
“That would be great! Can you use the messaging app on MyChart?”

I started using an online laboratory service, DirectLabs, in 2007 when I was an independent contractor with high-deductible insurance. I ordered the tests I wanted and paid online; the company would send me a requisition approved by one of their physicians. Then I would made an appointment at any of Quest Diagnostics locations, get my blood drawn and receive my results in a day or two. It was far cheaper and more convenient than getting blood tests from one of the local providers.

I still use DirectLabs every year.  I can get the Comprehensive Wellness Profile for $97; it includes:
• Comprehensive Metabolic Profile (CMP) (blood glucose, kidney and liver function tests and electrolytes)
• Complete blood count (CBC)
• Lipid profile (cholesterol and triglycerides)
• Thyroid Stimulating Hormone (TSH)
• Iron, uric acid, and phosphate
And there isn’t an additional $20 charge just for sticking a needle in my arm!

I signed into MyChart only to discover that I couldn’t send a message and attachment to her because “There are no providers you can contact.” I couldn’t reply to the last message exchange between me and Dr. because “This message is too old to respond to.”  Well, fuck you very much. So, being resourceful and proactive, I printed the report and drove to the office which was only a little over seven miles away but took half an hour because the main drag was backed up like rush hour for no apparent reason.

Dr. Thomas’s office had moved to another part of the facility since my last visit. The entry from the parking lot ended at an intersection – left for the Emergency Room, right for outpatient services. I recognized the area as I’d waited here when I had cataract surgery last Halloween. My eye caught a sign for “Specialty Care Group” on the right, but it was every specialty except the one I needed. I walked farther into the area and eventually found a directory on the wall behind me.

The office was on the second floor. I got into a dimly lit elevator with three other people. The four tiny, recessed lights in the ceiling made the car feel like a sleazy city alley. I almost asked the other people if we should be afraid of being mugged but thought better of it.

I found the office and asked the receptionist if Gracie was still around (she also works in another office across town).

“Yes, but I don’t know if she’s in today.”
“I know she’s in because I just talked to her. Would you give her this?”  

I handed her my report and left.

Gracie called me back while I was driving. I couldn’t answer so I waited until I got home; she left a message asking me to call her back. That meant going through the whole process yet again: waiting in the queue, “call 9-1-1, blah, blah, blah;” “appointment, dammit;” explaining to the sweet young thing; getting put on hold while she tracked down Gracie.

“I talked with Dr. Thomas. He can see you at 4:40 p.m. tomorrow but he wants you to get another CBC before he sees you.”
“Why? It’s only been a couple of weeks.”
“Have you been light-headed or dizzy?”
“No, I’m not anemic. You know I’m a physician?”
“Yeah, I kinda assumed that. But he wants another CBC.”
“Well, I’m not gonna drive back out there and waste another hour. Is there any place closer?”
“You live in Lombard? There’s one on Main Street in Lombard.”
“Is it in the sleep center?”
“No, it’s farther down, near downtown.”
(“Downtown” is a misnomer: it’s what the town used to be 100 years ago and about eight blocks long. The rest of the city is suburban sprawl.)
“Oh, I know; across from the Dairy Queen!”
“That’s it.”

The location was open until 7:30 p.m., at least according to Google. There’s an urgent care in the building and one would assume if they see patients until 7:30 p.m. that the lab would also be open should anyone need blood work. And one would be wrong.

I planned on Peg and I going there after she was finished working and before we went out to dinner. We arrived at 5:30 p.m. but the receptionist told me the lab closed at 5:00 p.m.. As we walked out, a couple in scrubs, presumably from the outpatient surgery center, said the lab closed at 4:00 p.m.. Irrelevant, since I was too late and therefore fucked.

The next morning Peg woke me up, all excited. She remembered the urgent care just up the street, a former bank, is one of PHN’s and has a drive-through lab open 6:30 a.m.- 6:30 p.m.. Technically, it’s in the next town but a lot closer than the Dairy Queen location.

It was a great setup! They had enclosed three former drive-through banking lanes with glass and aluminum garage doors. I called the number on the stop sign outside the lanes, gave someone my information, and waited for a door to open. Then I pulled in and stopped by the phlebotomist and her equipment cart. The area is climate-controlled judging by the thermostat on the wall and she wasn’t wearing a jacket (the outside temperature was about 45°). She asked me to open the door and stick my arm out. A couple of minutes later my blood had been drawn, the tube properly labeled, and I was out the door.

I went to vote early, picked up breakfast from Sonic, came home and logged on to my computer. I saw an e-mail from PHN asking me to complete online check-in to save time. It’s one of the few benefits of EHR’s. No more sitting around with a clipboard and multiple pieces of paper, trying to list your drugs on single spaced lines. I did all that and continued through email.

“There is a message from your provider’s office.” The message: “Appointment cancelled. Time: 4:20p.m..”
WTF? I called the main number and went through the queue YET AGAIN. Apparently, someone had made my appointment for 4:20p.m., cancelled it and moved it to 4:40p.m.

What might have happened if I was just a regular old person who didn’t think of pursuing this? “Well, they cancelled my appointment, so I won’t go and hope they will call me back to reschedule.”

We finally saw Dr. Thomas, a man whose rugged face and thick grey hair would make him perfect for a soap-opera physician.

“I understand you’re having rectal bleeding.”
“Yeah, it started a couple of months ago, but it’s become a lot more frequent, sometimes every day. Since I’ve had pelvic radiation, a new cancer was the first thing that popped into my head.”
“We see this a lot. You probably have AVMs – arteriovenous malformations – which are like little spider veins you see on the faces of old people. They are fragile, easily broken and likely what’s causing your bleeding. This can happen up to two years after radiation.” (I don’t remember my radiation oncologist mentioning this.)
 “We can cauterize them with an APC (argon plasma coagulator) but since that requires a colonoscopy and you’ve had adenomatous polyps, we should just look at your entire colon.”
“OK, fine by me.”

He asked me to change into a gown so he could do an external anal exam, then he left the room. I could have just dropped my pants and bent over like I did during prostate exams, but whatever. When he returned he had a quick peek, which seemed hardly worth the trouble.

“It looks good. I’ll have my nurse check the schedule and find a date.”

I wasn’t prepared when his nurse returned and asked, “Would Friday (two days later) work for you?”

I had a deer-in-the-headlights moment and didn’t know what to say. Bowel preps are time-consuming and annoying. Normally one has to start with altering the diet about five days before the procedure. I reluctantly agreed, having forgotten a dinner engagement on Saturday.

Ah, but there was another fly in the ointment that would delay things. The practice puts the burden of obtaining preauthorization for procedures on the patient. Fortunately, being married to someone working for the company that provides your insurance has its benefits. Peg called and talked with the woman who was a great help when I was going to have radiation therapy in 2023.

The healthcare coding system is the bane of physicians’ existence. We need to have an International Classifications of Disease (ICD-10) diagnosis code as well as a Current Procedural Terminology (CPT) code for the procedure. There’s also the Healthcare Common Procedure Coding System (HCPCS), pronounced “Hick-Picks” that the Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services (CMS) requires. This nonsense is yet another reason I’m happy to be out of the biz.

Our insurer doesn’t require preauthorization for a diagnostic colonoscopy, but it does for planned APC.  (Pop quiz: what does APC stand for?) I returned to the phone queue, got Dr. Thomas’s nurse and went round and round over the coding, trying to get her to understand that if I didn’t get preauthorization if needed, I’d potentially be on the hook for the entire charge plus a $250 “no-no-bad-dog” penalty. The fact that MyChart prevented me from replying to her messages just added to the aggravation.

So, I took the bull by the short ones and searched Google. I found the “2023 Coding & Payment Quick Reference” put out by Boston Scientific which had a code for “Colonoscopy, flexible; with control of bleeding, any method,” and sent it back to the nurse. The next morning, I was roused from my slumber at 8:00 am (no, I am NOT a morning person!). The doctor was happy with using that code and so was the preauthorization person. He also had a cancellation for the following Thursday, which worked out for us.

I ran into a minor snafu at the pharmacy with the bowel prep. The main ingredient in all bowel preps is polyethylene glycol (PEG-3350), the stuff in Miralax. Industrial-strength preps like Nu-Lytely (Gavalax-N is the generic), add sodium and potassium chloride, and sodium bicarbonate to minimize the electrolyte loss and potential cardiac complications of flushing one’s bowel with a gallon of fluid.

However, the most reviled of modern bowel preps is Go-Lytely, an evil concoction with sodium sulfite added to the other electrolytes. The result is something that smells and tastes like rotten eggs and is very salty. It’s one of the reasons most people hate bowel preps. The pharmacy wanted to give me Go-Lytely, but it appeared that Nu-Lytely had also been prescribed, so I took the latter.

The prep went relatively well, although chugging down half a gallon of cold solution that tastes like flat lemon-lime soda in less than three hours is a challenge. It might have been easier if the outside temperature was in the 90s instead of mid 40s. I warmed up some apple juice with a cinnamon stick to ward off the chills.

The Endoscopy Center called me mid-afternoon to tell me my procedure would be at 1:15 p.m.. I had to drink the other half gallon of solution starting six hours before getting the tube, so at least I could sleep all night.  Squirting warm, yellow liquid out your butt isn’t pleasant, but it could be so much worse.

We got to the Endoscopy Center a little before noon. I had my driver’s license, my Medicare card, and my insurance card in hand, but all the receptionist wanted to know was my birth date and home address. The waiting area was in the hall and seating was limited; we ended up in a couple of chairs just outside the double doors leading back to the suites.

About twenty minutes later a nurse in scrubs came through the door and said, “Harold.” A woman next to her yelled, “Hank! HANK! Get back here; they’re calling you.” Hank had gotten a little bored and wandered down the hall for no apparent reason, much to his wife’s irritation. I heard her say to the nurse, “Tell him he can’t go roller skating tonight!”  (My postoperative instructions cautioned against making critical decisions and operating any kind of machinery, “including kitchen appliances.”)

My turn came sooner than I expected, but was still a lot later than it should have been. A sweet young nurse named Cassidy, probably shy of thirty years, ushered us into the same room Peg had occupied when she had her colonoscopy, sans sedation, several years ago. I knew the drill very well: strip completely, put on the patient gown, open to the back, get on the cart and wait for her to put on EKG leads, take my blood pressure and pulse oximetry, and then start an IV.

Sometime during all this Peg mentioned I was a physician (after thinking Cassidy was talking to me like a five-year-old), and she perked up.

“What kind of physician?”
“Obstetrics.”
“I was an obstetric nurse at Holy Smokes Hospital!”
“How long ago?”
“About four years”
“I worked there in 2010.”
“I graduated high school in 2014!”

OK, so I could be either your father or grandfather. Thanks a lot.

Several minutes later Cassidy returned to tell us things were running late. Dr. Thomas was finishing one procedure; he had another, shorter procedure, before it was my turn. She left and I closed my eyes to ward off the boredom.

Then I heard a procession in the hall with someone yelling, “Frank. FRANK! We’re done and we’re going back to your room. Stop trying to get off the cart!” (Frank growled something unintelligible, which faded as they passed).

Finally, I saw Dr. Thomas, who asked us if we had any questions, followed by the CRNA who went over my medical history. Peg and I both stressed that I had a paradoxical reaction to benzodiazepines like Versed, which, along with fentanyl, is often used for sedation. She assured us they only used propofol. A few minutes later one of the OR nurses came to take me to the room.

“Wait a sec. I should go to the bathroom one last time.”
“Number one or number two”?
“Number one…what?” (Do I look like I’m a fucking kindergartener???)
“If it’s number two, don’t worry. We suck everything out anyway.” (I’ll keep that in mind for next time.)

I went into the restroom just across the hall and then climbed back onto the cart before she wheeled me into the procedure room.

Now, I’ve mentioned before how I find anesthesia fascinating. The conscious brain is disconnected from the rest of the brain and body, and it feels like time stops. This time I remember the dark curtain falling as they pushed the propofol. Hasta la vista; meet you on the other side.

IV sedation also removes inhibitions until the consciousness fully recovers. Apparently, I was a potty mouth when I returned. It started when the nurse was trying to adjust my blood pressure cuff and get me off my left side, where I’d been lying since the procedure began. Peg relayed my comments after I’d regained some semblance of coherence:

“This is bullshit!  Pardon my French.”
“They fucking zapped my ass.”
“That guy on the cart who tried to do a runner was an asshole.”
“Propofol is fucking great!”

I felt bad for exposing Cassidy to such profanity, but Peg assured me I was probably the least of her problems. An able-bodied man in the next room, waiting for his wife to return, was too fucking lazy to go to the bathroom across the hall and instead, peed into a urinal he found in the room. The problem was his aim sucked, and the poor nurse was left to wipe his pee off the floor, then empty the urinal in the bathroom because he was too lazy to do it himself.

I still think I should send Cassidy a note with an apology.

As suspected Dr. Thomas found several arteriovenous malformations, the source of my bleeding. Here are before and after pictures.

He also snagged four pre-cancerous tubular adenomas. I think I’m predisposed to other cancers, given I’ve already had prostate cancer and pelvic radiation. So now I’m on the three-year plan. I’ve already set a notification to call the GI office before the end of three years, so I don’t have to repeat this bullshit.

I had a phone visit with my radiation oncologist two months later.

“You should really tell your patients about arteriovenous malformations.”
He paused for a moment.
“I developed rectal bleeding and…”
“Oh, I thought you were talking about brain AVM. Yes, this is radiation proctitis and it happens in about 1% of patients.”

(Yeah, well that would have been nice to know).

It’s been seven months, and I haven’t had any more bleeding. But my PSAs are still rising, so I’ll be seeing the radiation oncologist again next month. Good times.

Postscripts

Stuff that’s too short for a single blog post

Cruise Characters
We ran into several colorful characters on the ship, some of whom epitomized the Ugly American.
• A couple in the pool lounge area moved from one table for four to another table for four when their two friends arrived—using new place settings instead of taking their used ones with them—for no apparent reason.
• This couple decided to take up two tables meant for three people. I realize there were very few people in the area, but someone has to clean up and this just makes you look selfish and entitled.

We boarded one excursion bus with a group that said they were from Colorado, but with whose accents sounded Texan. We figured their money came from either oil or ranching. Grandma—who wore a full-length fur coat even though the temperature was in the upper 50s—and Grandpa were footing the bill for themselves, their two divorced sons, the sons’ two grandsons and the grandsons’ skanky girlfriends, one of whom wore a dark nose ring which looked like a crusty booger from a distance. One of the sons never parted with his white cowboy hat even while on the ship or at dinner. As we took our seats behind them, we overheard them talking about hunting. One remarked, “Just because it’s illegal, doesn’t make it wrong.”

Another good ol’ boy with money told a couple they’d befriended, “We did the Bangkok to Bali cruise last year!” That one starts at six grand per person for the bargain basement accommodations and up to around $20,000 for the Explorer Suites.

There was a couple on the Southern Coast of Iceland tour who were a walking advertisement for Outdoor Man. They had waterproof windbreakers with matching zippered rain pants and matching rain hats, full-length walking sticks, backpacks filled with granola bars and other munchies “for the journey.”  They made a point of loudly proclaiming how well-prepared they were—”Gee, it’s a good think we have these rain pants!”—unlike us poor peasants who lacked their foresight—even though there was only a light, intermittent drizzle and our stops were 20 minutes max.

One couple could have been Santa and Mrs. Claus on vacation. He had a white beard and a long white ponytail; she had equally long full, white hair. We ran into them a couple of times in the hallway; they were very nice people! I wonder if the elves and reindeer got time off.

A cranky, old guy and his wife took up a table for six; it was littered with plates of half-eaten food. He asked one of the waitstaff for a glass of water with lemon but became irritable when it came with ice. “I said no ice, no ice!” The waiter brought him another one, sans ice, but the man never drank it. The next day the same dickhead set up his computer and paperwork on one of the video game tables in the Atrium instead of using a guest table.

We ran into an elderly couple several times. The husband, who was always very quiet, deserves to be nominated for sainthood. His wife complained about everything!  She had neglected to make a reservation for the Chef’s Table and was complaining to the hostess because they couldn’t be seated. She complained to the waitstaff at dinner in the World Café about whatever irritated her. Several times we caught her annoying the people at Guest Services for something which I’d guess was relatively trivial. As a friend of mine says, “I just nod, smile and drive the car.”

Peg overheard someone talking on his phone to what she assumed was his financial advisor. “I know it’s only dropped $6 million, but do you think we should just dump it?”  ONLY $6 million???

One couple at dinner raised our eyebrows. He looked like a college professor, balding with grey hair, in a dress shirt and sweater vest. She was much younger, probably early 20s and wore a plaid skirt, giving off a Japanese schoolgirl vibe, while sporting a silver band on her left hand. Was she his personal assistant or was he her sugar daddy? We’ll never know.

A passenger asked Guest Services if anyone had turned in his lost Air Pods.
“Where did you lose them?”
“Somewhere on the ship…or maybe on one of the excursions.”
(And you waited this long to ask???)

We were having coffee and tea at a table on Deck 1 just after breakfast. A very unhappy-looking woman sat across from us at the bar, downing cocktails at 9:30am. We wondered if the cruise was supposed to help a troubled relationship, much like some couples who think having a baby will bring them closer together. At least sailing was far cheaper than raising a kid for 18 years after the inevitable divorce.

Just for fun, I noted people who reminded me of celebrities:
• Ed O’Neill
• Rick Bayless
• Lorne Michaels
• a guy who could have been the love child of Bill Engvall and Scott Bakula.

Things I noticed
• Icelandair served 8 oz. soft drink cans.
• Iceland vendors use sturdy paper straws instead of plastic. No one complains.
• The drinks at the hot dog stand were 12 oz. No Big Gulps, and no one complains.
• All the toilets were wall-mounted, which makes cleaning bathroom floors much easier.
• Public toilet stalls have full-length doors.
• I found a can of Einstök Ölgerð’s White Ale at a local liquor store. It produces a very delicate head that resembles meringue

Guide to Icelandic Words and Pronunciation
The Icelandic alphabet has 32 letters.
• C, Q, W and Z are missing; Ð, Þ, Æ and Ö are unique additions.
• Ð and Þ are both th- sounds, but Ð is soft as in “thick”, while Þ is hard, as in “weather.”
• Æ/æ is pronounced “ayee”
• Ó/ó is pronounced “ou,” while Ö/ö is pronounced “oo.”

There are unique letter combinations and pronunciations:
• fnd and fnt are both pronounced “mt”, but the latter is softer.
• hv is pronounced “kv”
•ll is either “ll” as in villa, or “tl.”
You can find more information here: IPA Pronunciation Key for Icelandic

Icelandic names are often short words combined into one long one. The two rules for pronunciation are:
• break it down to the individual words
• stress the first syllable.

For instance. The volcano Eyjafjallajökull erupted in 2010, and pronouncing it confounded most English-speaking people. The components are eyja (“ay-ya”), “island,” fjalla (“fyal-la”), “mountains,” and jökull (“yo-kool”), glacier. So, Eyjafjallajökull means “island mountains glacier) and is pronounced “ay­-ya-fyal-a-yo-kool.”

Some other common component words are:
• hvoll (“kvoll”) = hills
• völlur (“vut-lur) = field
• selja (“sell-ya”) = sell
• skóga (“sko­-ah) = forests
• foss (“fohss) = waterfall
• urgöng (“uhr-gung”) = tunnel
• ís (“ees”) = ice
• fjörður (“fyor-thur”) = fjord

So, in English, Hvolsvöllur is “hill field”, Seljalandsfoss is “selling the land of waterfalls,” Skógafoss is “forest waterfall,” and Ísafjörður is “ice fjord.”

Coming Home

We made it to the Star Theater, our assigned assembly area, just as the group before us was leaving. When our turn arrived, we followed the path outside to the checkout station, scanned our cards and bid a bittersweet farewell to the Viking Mars. Not really. We’d gotten up earlier than usual and I hadn’t had my coffee, but I wasn’t awake enough to notice.

The sun was out, and the sky was a deep blue…which was just our luck. Our arrival and departure days were the only ones without clouds and rain. We walked down the gangway and into a tent, quickly identified our luggage, and then headed toward our assigned bus indicated by a staff member at the end of the tent, the same woman who guided the Southern Coast of Iceland tour. We settled into seats in the front row, waited for everyone to finish boarding and then departed on Reykjanesbraut, the highway to Keflavik International Airport. Click here for a short clip of the trip..

Ours was one of several buses lined up to discharge passengers at Keflavik. We waited while the driver unloaded suitcases, grabbed ours and headed for a very crowded entrance. I recognized the taxi pick-up area just to our left, remembering the dickhead that commandeered a van that could have held seven people just for himself.

Our arrival had been a challenge; our departure was absolute pandemonium. (The planned expansion, expected to be completed by 2030, can’t come too soon!) The airport has self-service kiosks for check-in, but one still needs to hand over tagged bags to an agent. I’d guess there were at least a few hundred people crammed into the lines that were moving like glaciers. Peg sat down at a small area reserved for wheelchair requests while I debated getting in line. I noticed the Icelandair Premium counter, at the far end of the perpendicular wall, was almost deserted. I grabbed Peg, our suitcases and passports and headed there; we were checked in and done in five minutes. There were several older women sitting in the wheelchair pickup area when we returned. One of the staff asked, in English, who needed a wheelchair. While the others looked around at each other in apparent confusion, I got her attention. If you snooze, you lose, and this was going to be one very long day.

The staffer was a Nordic goddess! Tall, blond hair, blue eyes and a butt to die for; she was a sight to behold even if I was old enough to be her father (or grandfather). I put my eyes back into my head and followed her as she deftly cut through the crowd, heading for the elevator that would take us to the second floor. People in wheelchairs get access to a priority line with far fewer passengers at the security checkpoint. When we arrived, I put Peg’s carry-on onto the conveyor belt, and we went through the metal detector.

We hadn’t removed our Kindles from the bag—it’s never been a problem in US airports—but they triggered the screener to flag it. This type of scanner automatically pushes suspect luggage onto a parallel conveyor belt for further inspection. A second screener grabbed Peg’s bag, put it on a long table behind her and asked, “Whose bag is this?” We both raised our hands.

She went through the bag and pulled out our Kindles. “These have to go through separately.” She put them in a plastic bin and ran our bag and the Kindles through again. We had to show her our boarding passes to reclaim the bag.

Peg’s carry-on bag wasn’t the only thing we picked up. A couple of disease vectors (read: little kids with underdeveloped senses of hygiene) were coughing openly and sniveling in our vicinity. I hadn’t thought of bringing masks, but I should have. We were in another country among a novel pool of viruses for which we had no immunity, and we both developed upper respiratory infections two days after our return.

Getting a wheelchair had another advantage. Instead of continuing with the mass of humanity headed for the gates, our Nordic goddess made a right turn and headed for a controlled access door that took us directly to the concourse leading to the South Terminal and the only lounge in the airport–available only to business/first-class passengers–where we would hang out for the next several hours.

Icelandair’s Saga Lounge is on the South Terminal’s third floor, away from the chaos, and is spectacular! We showed our boarding passes at the reception desk and then explored the area, passing by the self-serve buffet and restaurant seating that put food kiosks for mere mortals to shame. I saw a large smoked salmon, yogurt, granola, hot and cold cereals, and pastries. Drinks included water, coffee and tea, sodas, and a variety of alcoholic spirits, most notably 64° Reykjavik Distillery’s Rhubarb and Angelica Pink gins. The buffet switched over to lunch selections – a salad bar, hot soup, meat and cheeses for sandwiches, and cookies – around 11am.

A large boulder, an “elfstone”, sat at the entrance to a seating area across from the buffet, with leather chairs and loveseats around small coffee tables. I can only imagine how they got the rock into the lounge and hoped the engineers had correctly calculated sufficient floor support.

The Elfstone

We found a spacious lounge area behind the elfstone section with wide, comfortable surrounding a gas fireplace in the center. Small tables with USB ports and European outlets separated the chairs, providing room for drinks and personal belongings. Chaise lounges located along several of the full-length windows afforded guests views of the peninsula. Strategically placed refreshment stands featured refrigerators with cold soft drinks, an automated coffee/cappuccino maker with real china cups, and a variety of alcoholic spirits. We parked Peg’s rollator and carry-on at one end of the chairs and headed to the buffet for breakfast.

The bathrooms behind the restaurant are remarkable. The lighting is indirect and soft; none of the fluorescent glare in most public toilets in the US. The floor and sinks are immaculate, and the stalls have full-sized doors. The toilets are wall-mounted, which makes cleaning the floor a lot easier. Two shower rooms equipped with soap, shampoo, conditioner, and large towels are available without needing a reservation. (You’ll know what I mean if you’ve ever been in a large, interstate truck stop.)

We returned to our seats after breakfast. Most of the next several hours were quiet, aside from the horde of eight-year-old girls running amok until they left for their flight. A woman sitting near us kept bitching at her teenage son’s dietary choices. I made several trips to the refreshment bar refrigerator to replenish Peg’s drinks. We later revisited the food area for lunch; I had a few shots of the rhubarb gin during the afternoon.

The reception desk had assured us the wheelchair escort would return around 5:00pm for our flight, but no one had shown up by 5:45 so we had the desk call for someone. It took about 30 minutes for the escort to arrive, and boarding had already started when we reached the gate. There’s no seating at the boarding gate and hanging around would have been another nightmare. We had to take an elevator to the jet bridge while the more mobile had to climb stairs. We gate-checked Peg’s rollator, assuming it would be at the gate at O’Hare when we arrived, another mistaken assumption.

Our flight back was uneventful. We once again had drinks and dinner and settled in. First class passengers get free noise cancelling headphones, so I browsed music by Icelandic composers—I think Norwegian and Finnish composers are better)—while Peg watched the Barbie movie. Despite leaving Iceland at 7:00pm, it was just dusk as we descended over Michigan on our way to O’Hare. We were more than ready to get off the plane by the time we landed.

We hadn’t seen passengers getting off the inbound flight the night we left. We discovered that international passengers are diverted to Customs instead of walking past the boarding area, a VERY LONG trek. Peg’s rollator wasn’t at the gate (big surprise), but a wheelchair was ready. We went down a corridor, down a long switchback ramp to the ground floor and then another long walk before standing in yet ANOTHER line to pass through Customs. (O’Hare might want to consider installing a moving walkway.)

We were exhausted but fortunately had a young and friendly Customs agent to whom we presented our passports.
“Do you have anything to declare?”
“A couple of chocolate bars for the family.”
“Well, you look OK. Have a good night.”

We walked through the checkpoint to baggage claim, found our bags and the Rollator, and headed outside. It was warm and muggy, unlike the cool and cloudy weather we’d left behind. I called for our pickup and waited for 20 minutes until he arrived. We piled into the car; the air conditioning felt really good. The driver and Peg chatted; I pretended to sleep. Finally, we were home and ready to crash, but I had to turn the water back on. A quick trip to the basement and then bedtime!

The cruise was a good way to get an overview of Iceland with minimal hassle. If we were to do it again I’d wait a few years until Keflavik International Airport has been renovated, and I’d rent a car so we could see things at a far more leisurely pace than the tour bus cattle herding. We’d definitely want to revisit Akureyri; it’s a five-hour drive from Reykjavik but a 45-minute flight from the downtown Reykjavik Domestic Airport.

Time is becoming a scarce commodity and the current political turmoil threatens international travel. I’m just grateful we were able to make the trip.

Up Next: Postscripts

Photo Credits:
Beautiful sunset in Iceland II. Helgi Halldórsson from Reykjavík, Iceland. Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license.
Saga Lounge graphic: Icelandair.com
All other photos: mine.

Djúpivogur, Heimaey and back to Reykjavik

Day 6 – Djúpivogur
The rest of the trip was a bust, at least as far as the shore excursions. The next stop, Djúpivogur, had only tender (lifeboat) access. The weather sucked and the water was so rough that several passengers, including us, turned our excursion tickets into Guest Services, despite being ineligible for a refund. One woman sustained a wrist injury on the return trip from Djúpivogur – she was proudly brandishing her soft cast later that day, telling anyone who would listen about her escape from near total catastrophe.

The top photo is what the Daily Viking promised, and the bottom was what we got.

We spent the rest of the day wandering about the ship, amusing ourselves with a game of Scrabble in the Atrium, reading on the couches in the Living Room and a break for cappuccino. I got on the guest computers, located beneath the stairs, just for the fun of it and discovered the browser defaults to Lands End UK.

Thursday Night’s Dinner Siege
Having free access to anything expensive or in short supply brings out the worst in some people, and the day’s poor weather probably didn’t help. The World Café featured all-you-can-eat lobster tails for dinner. People stood in line, demanding up to five tails as quickly as the kitchen staff could bring them out, and damn anyone who might be left empty handed!  Peg pondered the strain on the ship’s bathroom waste disposal system overnight.

Day 7 – Heimaey
The last stop on the trip was supposed to be Heimaey but, like Djúpivogur, it is only accessible by tender and the water was even rougher than the day before. (If you want an easier way to get to Heimay, you can take the ferry from Landeyjahöfn on the southern coast, or book a flight from Reykjavik Domestic Airport.) The captain decided to head on to Reykjavik instead. Our cruise director broke the bad news during her morning greeting but promised the staff was “scrambling to provide alternatives guaranteed to delight and surprise.” They set up a seafood and pasta buffet in the pool deck, which we thoroughly enjoyed while listening to the pool loudly sloshing, like waves crashing on the beach, as the ship rocked.

Despite the rough seas, the day was mostly sunny and pleasant. Just our luck. We passed by several small islands, including Elliðaey Island, home to “the loneliest house on earth.”  (I fail to see a downside to that.)

Heimaey is the largest island in the Vestmannaeyjar (“Vest-man-ah-ay-yar”, translation: “Westman Islands”) archipelago off Iceland’s southern coast.  Vestmannaeyjabær (Vest-man-ah-ay-bar”) is the only town on the island The destination is known for puffins, beluga whales and…golf? Yep, the Vestmannaeyjar Golf Club is known as the best in Iceland, situated in a crater and bordered by the Atlantic.

Aerial view of Vestmannaeyjabær, Heimay, Iceland

Every year Icelanders celebrate Þjóðhátíð on the weekend before the first Monday in August. (The closest pronunciation I could find for Þjóðhátíð sounds like “throw-hor-teeth.”) Also known as Verslunarmannahelgi (“Veyrs-loo-nar-man-ah-hel-gi”) or Merchant’s Holiday,” this mashup between Woodstock and Burning Man (without the nudity, because it’s too damned cold!) features concerts, dancing, sports and, of course, alcohol. The locals set up tents for people to warm up and socialize. There’s a bonfire on Friday night and fireworks on Saturday night. The festival concludes on Sunday night with the crowd singing popular Icelandic ballads, followed by a recreation of the 1973 eruption of the Eldfell Volcano just outside Vestmannaeyjabær.

If you want an easier way to get to Heimay, you can take the ferry from Landeyjahöfn on the southern coast, or book a flight from Reykjavik Domestic Airport.

Dinner at Manfredi’s
For our final evening we had booked a reservation at Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant on the starboard side of Deck 1. (The Chef’s Table is on the port side), but instead of enjoying it at sea, we sat in Reykjavik’s Skarfabakki Harbor, looking at the Innnes warehouse.

I had Fritto Misto Amalfitano (crispy shrimp, calamari coated in flour & semolina, lemon zest, garlic aioli) for the First Course (a.k.a  appetizer), Linguini ai Frutti di Mare (fresh linguine pasta, mussels, clams, langoustine; with a Pino Grigio & cherry tomato sauce) for the Second Course, Brodetto all’Anconetana (mixed fish and seafood stew with tomatoes, garlic & parsley, toasted rustic bread) for the Main Course, and tiramisu for dessert. It was quite a remarkable meal!

Peg had the Viking Bistecca, a thick cut rib eye coated in garlic oil and rubbed with porcini mushroom powder, kosher salt, brown sugar and red chili flakes, which Peg absolutely loved! I bought porcini mushroom powder soon after I got home and I’m waiting for the next grilling season to try this out! Here’s the recipe, Porcini Dry-Rubbed Ribeye, and all the choices Manfredi’s #5 Menu.

Three couples were sitting at a round table behind us; two who had traveled together and a third couple they had met on the cruise. One man said he didn’t like traveling and had agreed to this cruise just to appease his wife. Why one would spend several thousand dollars doing something one hates boggles the mind.

Two of the men were talking about guns; the one who I could hear was firmly against them; the other one was soft spoken. It was surprising to hear a civil discourse about a very polarizing subject.

After dinner we started packing for leaving the ship the following morning. The staff left us a color-coded disembarkation schedule, which avoided a mass exodus and bottlenecks, and corresponding colored tags (we were in Purple Group 3). Our tagged bags had to be outside our stateroom door by 11pm for collection and we had to be in the Star Theatre, the entertainment venue at the front of the ship, at 8:15 am the next morning.

Morning would come all too soon.

Photo credits:
Djúpivogur promotional photo and Disembarkation schedule: Viking Mars.
Djúpivogur aerial view: Eysteinn Guðni Guðnason. 11 July 2023  Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license
Vestmannaeyjar. Hansueli Krapf.25 May 2006.  Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.
All other photos are mine.

Day 5 – Seyðisfjörður

I was really looking forward to Seyðisfjörður (“say-this-fyor-thur”), a town in eastern Iceland, sitting at the innermost point of the fjord of the same name. We had turned to streaming services during COVID and discovered Ófærð (Trapped), an Icelandic crime series which was filmed in Siglufjörður in the north and Seyðisfjörður in the east (even though the two towns are four and a half hours apart on the Ring Road and that’s when the weather is good.) The ship passed Siglufjörður during the night on our way to Akureyri, so this would be my only chance to see where part of the series was filmed.

Trapped was our introduction to Nordic Noir – crime fiction that is deeply dark, brooding, and often brutal, unlike the often-stereotypical image of blonde, cheery Scandinavians frolicking in fields under the midnight sun. It is the antithesis of the popular British “cozy murder mystery” like Midsomer Murders, Father Brown, anything Agatha Christie and Grantchester. Henning Mankell is considered to be the father of Nordic Noir with his Kurt Wallander books. Other noted authors are Sweden’s Steig Larsson (The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo), Iceland’s Arnaldur Indriðason (Detective Erlendur), Norway’s Jo Nesbø (Detective Harry Hole). and Finland’s Leena Lehtolainen (Detective Maria Kallio).

In the first season of Trapped, Andre Olofsson, the police chief of an isolated town in Iceland, tries to unravel the murder of a man whose frozen torso is discovered in the harbor, while also dealing with his dysfunctional marriage. (Ólafur Darri Ólafsson, who bears a striking resemblance to our nephew Christopher, plays Andre) We saw it on Amazon Prime, but as of this writing it has moved to Plex, Pluto TV, and The Roku Channel. Watch the trailer here.

But I digress…

We hadn’t ordered room service for breakfast, so we had to get food in the World Café, a big mistake!  There were no inside tables at 9a.m., so we filled our plates and went out to the deck, which was really cold. We lasted about 10 minutes before hustling back to the ship’s warmth.

Cloudy and about 50°

We didn’t get a chance to visit any of the area’s highlights. Our previous excursions combined with the cold, damp weather left us tired and uncomfortable, and we didn’t book one of the bus tours. I had planned on the walking tour of Seyðisfjörður but only got as far as the port terminal before realizing it would not be a great idea. I bought a 2000 ISK (~ $14 US) potholder in the terminal with a 10,000 ISK bill (~ $72 US) just to get smaller denominations for tips and small purchases.

History of Seyðisfjörður
According to Landnámabók, the Icelandic Book of Settlement, Bjólfur (“Byol-foor”), blood brother of the powerful sorcerer Loðmundur the Old, settled in the fjord in the 11th century. There are graves dating back to the 8th century in the area around Seyðisfjörður. The town sits at the base of the mountain named after him, and Bjólfur is thought to be buried near the peak. Esja Architecture designed the Ring of Bjólfur a cantilevered 360° viewing platform, 650m/2133 ft. above the town, which is scheduled to be completed in 2025.

Seyðisfjörður began to develop in 1848 when Norwegian fishermen established the area as a fishing and trading post. There was a modern whaling station in nearby, now abandoned, Vestdalseyri (“Vest-dal-say-ree”)  between 1864 and 1866. In 1906 the first telegraph cable from Europe to Iceland terminated in Seyðisfjörður. A dam created across a nearby river was used to create the first hydroelectric plant in Iceland in 1913, supplying electricity to homes and street lights.

Although neutral and united with Denmark, the British Royal Navy and Royal Marines preemptively invaded and occupied Iceland in 1940. The Germans sank the British oil tanker El Grillo (The Cricket) sitting in Seyðisfjörður’s port, on February 11, 1944. The Kaffi Lára El Grillo Bar (named after the El Grillo and the previous occupant, the “legendary” Lára) serves meat, fish and a wide variety of Icelandic beers.

In December 2020 heavy rain triggered a series of mudslides which destroyed twelve houses, damaged more than forty others and the Technical Museum of Iceland. Seyðisfjörður was evacuated and the residents didn’t return until October 2021.

Seyðisfjörður has relied heavily on tourism, even more after Brim Seafood Company’s  local, outdated fish-processing plant shut down in 2023.  

The Smyril Line’s ferry Norröna, registered in the Faroe Islands, sails between Seyðisfjörður, the Faroe Islands and Hirtshals, Denmark mid-March through late November.  The terminal is an international port, so one must show a passport when going through the building in either direction, even though our ship was docked there. (The ferry was central to Trapped Season One’s plot.)

Seyðisfjörður International Port

The Road not Traveled
I did some research for this post about the opportunities we missed.

Seyðisfjarðarkirkja (“say-this-fyar-thar-kir-kya””), the iconic Blue Church, is one of the most famous sights in Seyðisfjörður, sitting at one end of Norðurgata (“North-ur-ga-ta”), the Rainbow Walk.

Walking tour with the Blue Church in the background.
Seyðisfjarðarkirkja and the Rainbow Walk

Skálanes (“Skau-la-nes”) Nature and Heritage Center sits on 1250-hectares/3100-acres about 17.4km/11mi northeast of Seyðisfjörður. More than forty bird species make their homes in the cliffs along the coast. Arctic terns and eider ducks have the largest colonies in the area. The ducks shed down from their breasts to keep their eggs warm. Eider down is an excellent insulator and harvesting the down is an Icelandic tradition. People use hay or seaweed to replace the down.

Seyðisfjörður has become a cultural center for artistic creativity. The Skaftfell Center for Visual Art was founded in honor of Dieter Roth, an influential Swiss-German artist who lived here in his later years. The Center supports established and ascending artists with a residency program, hosting exhibitions and seminars. The Skaftfell Bistro, on the Center’s ground floor,  is said to be one of the best places to eat in Seydisfjordur,

One of the more intriguing parts of Skaftfell is Tvísöngur (“Tvis-on-gur”), which means “two songs” in Icelandic. Lukas Kühne, a German-born artist, created Tvísöngur, a “site specific sound sculpture” of five interconnected domes of varying dimensions, designed to resonate to specific tones. I don’t understand the physics, but if you are morbidly curious, here’s a link to an academic thesis: Lukas Kühne’s Tvísöngur: Sculpture for a Concrete, Uncompressed Voice

Tvísöngur

Fjarðarheiði (“Fyar-thar-hay-thi”) is a 24.5km/15.22mi long mountain pass between Seyðisfjörður and Egilsstaðir (“Ae-yil-sta-thir”). The drive takes one from lush countryside to barren tundra at the 623m/2,043ft peak. It is a rather scenic drive if one is blessed with good weather. (We would likely have driven through fog if we’d made the trip). The Fjarðará River (“Fyar-tha-ra”) runs west along the roadway from Seyðisfjörður and is a good place for flyfishing in the summer. During the winter one can ski at Stafdalur Ski Station, (“Staff-da-lure”) a short 7.8km/4.8mi from Seyðisfjörður.

There are several waterfalls between in the area, the largest one being Gufufoss (“Goo-fu-foss”) about 4km/2.5mi southwest of Seyðisfjörður. Gufufoss means “steam waterfall” in Icelandic, so named because of the heavy mists that rise from the base of the falls. Gljúfurfoss (“Glue-fur-foss”), one of two falls with the same name is 5.1km/3mi west of Gufufoss, just east of Lake Heiðarvatn (“Hay-thar-vat”), and not to be confused with the other Lake Heiðarvatn, north of Vik in Southern Iceland.

Fardagafoss (“Far-da-ga-foss”) is 5.4km/3.5mi east of Egilsstaðir, at the roots of Fjarðarheiði. Ancient folklore told of a giant female troll with a large cauldron filled with gold who lived in the now-collapsed lava cave behind the falls. Sensing her coming demise, she pushed the kettle into a deep hole in another, different, falls named Gufufoss. Legend says you can see the kettle’s handle when the water level drops. One can also explore the Fardagafoss Hiking Trail.

Read more: What to do in Seyðisfjörður | The Charming Village in East Iceland

We opted to have lunch again at the Pool Grill, then headed back to our room. Peg spent the afternoon reading and I decided to go back to the Nordic Spa and the timing couldn’t have been better. The first time I saw the spa was early evening, just before dinner and the pool looked like old people soup. This time there was no one in the hot tub, so I tossed my towel and robe on one of the loungers and simmered for about fifteen minutes. From there I went to the steam room, then the snow room. There was still no snow, just the pile of slush in the corner.

Afternoon Tea
Back from the spa, Peg suggested we attend the daily “afternoon tea” in the lanai off the pool deck.  A British tradition, afternoon tea was traditionally held around 4pm, when the idle rich indulged in finger sandwiches, scones and pastries along with their tea. High tea was a hardier meal the working class consumed after work. (Remember Roger Daltry in a tub of Heinz Baked Beans: “What’s for tea?”)

We sat on comfortable, low-backed seats with a grand view of the harbor and grey skies. One of the waitstaff brough a plate of scones followed by a three-tiered tray of finger sandwiches and pastries. Peg ordered a pot of tea, and I decided to try out a shot of Linie (“Lee-nee”) a Norwegian aquavit made from potato, flavored with caraway dill, fennel, anise and coriander. It is then matured at sea, in Oloroso sherry casks, during a round-trip voyage between Norway and Australia while crossing the “LINE” (equator) twice. It was…interesting, not as vile as Malört. I thought I’d avail myself of Iceland’s Black Death (Brennivin) before we left.

The remainder of the trip was disappointing; I’ll address that in the next post

Photo Credits
Featured image: Seyðisfjörður town view, Kasa Fue September 2019, 10:19:01. Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license.
Seyðisfjarðarkirkja and the Rainbow Walk Saifunny 26 July 2018. Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International 
Tvísöngur, listaverk eftir Lukas Kühne frá árinu 2012, staðsett á Seyðisfirði. Cinquantecinq  6 July 2020. Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International 
All other photos mine